Transfers

I use dry etch transfers most of the time to transfer the schematic to the the copper. The use of dry etch transfers is pretty straight forward, you place the transfer over the copper where you need a trace, referring to you schematic, and rub it on. Wash the copper before you start placing the transfer to assure uniform contact between the copper and transfers. I Usually start by placing a circular transfers over all the holes top and bottom before (if double sided) I start with the traces. Now mimic your paper schematic top and bottom if applicable, on the copper and when you have all the traces down lay the board in between to sheets of paper or whatever and press all over the board to make sure all your traces are down tight. And as always double check your work, if you mess this stage up, and etch it, you'll have to start all over . You usually don't find out until you go to place your components and as I'm sure you can imagine it's not a happy moment.

Etching

When you are ready to etch the copper you should be in a well ventilated area and lay down something water proof like Handiwrap or wax paper in case you spill any of the Ferric chloride. Ferric chloride will stain anything it touches except most plastics and glass. If you warm the ferric chloride first it will etch the copper faster but be sure not to heat it up to much or the dry etch transfers will bubble and ruin your board. I use those cheap glad tupper wear like dishes to etch in and they seem to hold pretty well. Pour enough ferric chloride into the etch tub so your board is completely submerged and stick it in the micro wave for about 5~10 seconds or until warm but not hot, if it gets hot wait until it cools before you put the copper in or you may have to start over. Slowly agitate the copper by moving the etch tub and in about 5~7 minutes you should see the copper washing away. After about 12 minutes or so you should almost be done and when all of the exposed copper is removed remove the finished PCB and dispose of the etchant. I read the MSDS on Ferric chloride after hearing I could pour it down the toilet and didn't see any reason why not. If you have any pets that like to drink out of toilet be sure and flush a couple times just in case. Now using the edge of credit card or plastic something or other scrape off the the dry etch transfer's left on the board. Give the board another quick bath and light scrub with some fine steel wool to clean the copper for soldering.

Tinning

Ok now you should have a nice PCB in your hands if you like you can use tinning solution or Fluoboric Acid to tin the copper and give it a nice professional look as well as protect the copper from tarnish. I usually just cover the exposed copper with solder while soldering but if you have a large project this could get very time consuming. When you place your components work from shortest to tallest for obvious reasons, and pre-place your components if possible to make sure everything fits. Check that you're putting things on the top side of the board and solder away. Also bending the leads of components helps when soldering to hold the components in place but keep in mind if something goes wrong you may need take out a component or two and it's pretty tough if the leads are bent over.

Soldering is something you get a feel for, it can be shown and there are guidelines and information for soldering but I learned to solder by soldering. Here are few things I've learned along the way: keep a small tub with a sponge submerged in water to clean the iron tip repeadly this is important with hot irons. Try and make contact with the board first and push solder to the device lead to keep from heating the device to much. If the joint is solid the solder will be cone shaped. Keep your tip to a point by grinding, cuttin or whatever so you can get it into tight places. Keep a little bit of solder on your tip for a more even and faster heat transfer. Electronic componets due have a maximum heat and heat-time that can be applied while soldering, refer to the data sheet.

And the finished board. This is an output driver board used to sink and source current to drive a set of output transistors, or it could be a high voltage opamp. If you replace the 50v bypass cap's with higher voltage devices then this baord can be used all the way up to 100v's+ per rail or 200v's+ total, not that you'd ever need it but just in case. I have used mpsa42~92 combo for small signal and mje340~350 combo transistors for drivers.